Why blades chip




















Nearly every time, a chip is an accident. Faulty steel fails in a very easy to identify and clear way so chips are almost the result of an unfortunate accident of some sort. It might be hitting a bone or even a slight twist while cutting that stresses the blade in a particular way that one time. Once a customer has used a knife in their kitchen, it's impossible for us to know how they cut, what it's been used for so there's simply no way to advise on what might have happened to cause a chip.

If you have chipped your knife - don't worry! We've not seen a chip that can't be fixed somehow. It's simply an unfortunate accident in the same way as scuffing the alloys on your Ferrari might be if you catch it on the edge of a pavement while driving.

Japanese knives are made differently to Western knives. To achieve great sharpness some compromises need to be made but we think it is worth it. A Japanese blade is typically much thinner than a Western one. The spine of the knife the top part of the blade may appear about the same width but the cutting edge is much thinner. Pro: A thinner cutting edge means it is less of a wedge that you have to drag through the food so it cuts much better.

Con: The thinner cutting edge means you have to be more precise with your cutting action than with a Western knife and take more care to cut straight and avoid twisting. Western knives are typically sharpened to degrees on each side. The Japanese knives we sell are typically degrees on each side. This might not sound like much of a difference but it makes a massive impact in just how sharp that knife feels. A knife is a sharp wedge at the end of the day and the wider the wedge the more effort required to push the knife through the ingredient.

So our knives are smaller wedges which is why they cut through things easier. Pro: The lower edge angle allows the blade to cut through the food easier. Con: A lower edge angle means a sharper edge that you need to refine your cutting style to get the most benefit from.

Steel can be hardened to all sorts of levels. This is referred to as the Rockwell Hardness of the steel. Western knives are typically on the scale. The Japanese knives we stock are typically on the scale. Again this might not sound like much of a difference but it is. The edge of a western knife will bend when damaged, a Japanese one will chip.

The reason for the increased hardness is due to Japanese knives being sharpened to a higher angle. The edge would soon become blunt as the softer edge would roll over. Often the entire width does not need to be reground, as the image above shows, but it can be rounded towards the tip. This can be done by hand on a diamond stone or on a machine grinder. Sometimes only a small amount of the blade on the bevel needs to be ground, sometimes the entire length.

In this case, it was an inexpensive Buck chisel that I use for crude chopping, and has little value otherwise. A tip chip. Solution: a new rounded tip. Some prefer to have rounded tips on leather paring knives and other knives anyway. Think carefully if you want to keep the original bevel angle, or raise it slightly as in the above example.

The above chip could also be fixed by reducing the width of the knife on the left side of the image. Regrinding a knife back to the original bevel angle. Like this: Like Loading Leave a Reply Cancel reply Enter your comment here Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:.

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Sign me up. Wafer-thin slices will no longer be an option, for instance. So always try sharpening from a diagonal angle, as you normally would. As such you can remove more material even faster. You have an outdated webbrowser. The website might not work correctly.

All-inclusive UK prices. We ship from the Netherlands. Our customers give us a 4. New products. Related topics. How do you sharpen an axe? Sharpening a bread knife. Find the correct sharpening angle. Pull-through knife sharpeners put to the test. Sharpening stone, whetstone, water stone: the meaning behind. How to sharpen a knife? Stropping: compounds, sprays and pastes. Sharpening: the basics.

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